The Musee Granet, Aix en ProvenceOnce a sleepy provincial gallery, the Granet Museum has, thanks to some important loans and bequests, built up a fine collection of modern art over the last decade. It now stages several major exhibitions a year. logoClick here to book a hotel in Aix en Provence



Most galleries organise shows and events around individual artists or historical movements. The Musée Granet does this too at times, as in its popular 2016 show celebrating the Marseille painter Charles Camoin.

But it has also often spotlighted private collectors with exhibitions gathering together works chosen by a visionary individual enthusiast. It’s an intriguing and revealing approach.

Recent examples have included Chefs d'Oeuvre de la Collection Pearlman (Masterpieces from the Pearlman Collection), a showcase for the discerning eye of the American businessman Henry Pearlman; Icônes américaines, (American Icons), featuring the Fisher Collection at the Museum of Modern Art in San Francisco; and the Frieder Burda collection.

News for the Musee Granet in Aix en ProvenceThe Granet’s current summer show, which continues until 24 September, follows the same tradition. It’s called Passion de l'Art (A Passion for Art) and, even more unusually, explores the work of the Jeanne Bucher Jaeger Gallery and art dealership in Paris.

jeanne bucherBorn in 1872, Jeanne Bucher was always closely involved in art. Her husband was a celebrated pianist and she herself worked translating Strindberg and Rilke and running a foreign language bookshop. Then she began curating exhibitions and in 1926 turned her bookshop into a gallery.

Her tastes were wide-ranging, and that’s reflected by the examples on view at the Granet. Some big names are there – Picasso, Kandinsky, Braque, Giacometti – but also many new discoveries.

As the mood in Europe turned dark, Bucher championed dissident, Jewish and what the Nazis called "degenerate" artists. Photographs capture a strong, handsome women with a steady, almost challenging gaze: someone with firm views. Image © Galerie Jeanne Bucher.

After her death in 1946, her great-nephew, Jean-François Jaeger, took over. He had never met Bucher and had no previous gallery experience. But that didn't seem to hold him back.

Jaeger developed an interest in world art, acquiring monumental pieces from Mexico and New Guinea. By then the gallery had moved to larger premises and he could accommodate much bigger works than was originally possible. Today his daughter, Véronique, continues the family tradition.

The exhibition at the Granet presents over 100 works from the Jeanne Bucher Jaeger Gallery. It includes many wonderful pieces. We loved the silvery, shimmering visions of Portuguese artist Maria Helena Vieira da Silva, a mysterious portrait of Samuel Beckett by Louis Le Brocquy, Fabienne Verdier's brilliant giant paintbrush stroke and the fabulous abstract and semi-abstract pieces by Nicolas de Staël to mention just a few.

de stael studio orangePictured: Atelier fond orange (Studio orange background) by de Staël. © Private collection. Large photographs show how some of these works were originally displayed in Paris.

The explanatory panels at the Granet are in French only, however, so you'll need to pay an extra three €uros for an audio-guide if you want a commentary in English or another language.

We met Véronique Jaeger at the press view and had two rather naïve questions, which she answered elegantly. Gallery owners aim to sell their artworks – so how did the Bucher Jaeger family end up owning so many?

At first it was hard to find buyers for some pieces, such as the zany, brightly coloured work of Jean Dubuffet, she explained. And finally the family became attached to them.

Our second question: the Bucher Jaeger Gallery represents a kind of dynasty. Can you inherit a passion for art? Madame Jaeger says she had this very discussion recently with her own 12-year-old son.

His reply: “It’s not a question of inheriting, but of meriting.” A mature insight that bodes well for the Bucher Jaeger Gallery's future.

Next up at the Musée Granet: Cézanne at home. This exhibition is based around the museum's small collection of paintings, drawings and engravings by the Aix master.

It also has an oil painting on loan from the Pearlman Collection, Vue vers la route du Tholonet près du Château Noir, plus a recent donation of six letters from Cézanne to Charles Camoin. 20 October-1 April 2018.

Another exhibition at the Granet over the winter is devoted to the 20th century artist Pierre Tal-Coat, who lived and worked in the region. 18 November-11 March 2018.

In spite of this very lively current programme, the Musée Granet will never live down the fact that it has just a handful of works in its permanent collection by Aix's most famous son.

Paul Cézanne studied life drawing at the museum as a young man. He offered it dozens of paintings in later life, but was rudely rejected.

"Never in my lifetime will any of his works enter here," declared the then-curator Auguste-Henri Pontier, a minor sculptor whose own work has long since passed into obscurity.

Still, the Musée Granet has since done its best to make up for this embarrassing blunder with a spectacular blockbuster retrospective in 2006 marking the centenary of the artist's death, followed by another major show, Picasso Cézanne, in 2009.

It has secured other works by Cézanne on temporary long-term loan and in 2011, acquired the only known portrait by Cézanne of his childhood friend, the writer Emile Zola, painted before the two men became estranged in later life (click here to read about a film of this story).

Les Baigneuses, Paul Cezanne, Musee Granet, AixThe ten Cézanne paintings at the Granet also include a small study for Les Baigneuses (pictured) and a portrait of Madame Cézanne. However they are frequently away on loan.

The museum also owns some late watercolours of Mont Sainte Victoire as well as drawings and enragvings. But these too are only on display intermittently for conservation reasons. So don't make Cézanne the basis for your expedition to the Musée Granet.

Still, there are plenty of other things to see. One of the museum's key long-term loans came in 2000 from the collector Philippe Meyer. It includes an impressive cluster of 19 pieces by Giacometti as well as works by Léger, Mondrian, Klee and others.

In 2010 the Musée Granet received another loan, this time from the Fondation Planque. The estate of the Swiss collectors Jean and Suzanne Planque comprises some 300 works by Degas, Klee, Picasso, Braque and others.

At first space constraints at the Granet - based in the 17th century Palais of Malta, the former priory of the Knights of Malta, in the Mazarin Quarter - prevented these riches from all being on display.

But in 2013 a new annexe was created to house the Planque Collection at the nearby 17th century Chapelle des Pénitents Blancs.

Back at the Musée Granet's main building, the permanent collection includes finds from the Celto-Ligurian archaeological site (dating from the third to second centuries BC) at Entremont, just north of Aix: limestone sculptures of warriors, ceramics, jewellery, and implements. Other galleries are devoted to a lot of rather dull 19th century marble busts and sculptures.

Jupiter and Thetis by IngresThere are also paintings from the 14th to 18th centuries, including pieces by Rubens and Rembrandt. A whole room is dedicated to François-Marius Granet (1775-1849), a local painter whose personal collection formed the original basis of the museum.

Alas, he was himself an undistinguished artist, through the display includes a nice portrait of Granet by Ingres, whose giant, strange and ambivalent Jupiter and Thetis (1811), pictured, is one of the museum's most arresting works.

The signage is in French only, but an audio guide is available in English, German, Italian, Spanish and Japanese. There is also an audio guide for children.

The Musée Granet has no cafeteria. However there are machines dispensing coffee, soft drinks and snacks and a pleasant courtyard for resting in.

Insider Tip for the Musee GranetEntrance to the Musée Granet is free, apart from certain major exhibitions, on the first Sunday of every month. (Note that this freebie does not apply between June and September.)

Where: Musée Granet, place Saint Jean de Malte and the Chapelle des Pénitents Blancs, place Jean-Boyer (at the top of the rue du maréchal Joffre), 13100 Aix en Provence. Tel: (+33) 4 42 52 88 32

The front entrance of the main building is acceded by steps, but there is wheelchair access at 18 rue Roux Alphéran, just round the corner. Website for the Musée Granet




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