Vines MontmirailAutumn is surely the best time of year to visit Provence. Here are five great reasons to come here then, and some of the annual fall highlights in September, October and November.

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Click here for our companion guides to spring in Provence, to summer in Provence and to winter in Provence.

Provence empties suddenly at the end of August, when many visitors - especially families with children, of course - head home for la rentrée (back to school). Yet the climate can still be glorious, with warm days and mild nights continuing well into the autumn.

Daytime temperatures in (for example) Marseille can reach highs of 25 degrees Celsius / 77 degrees Fahrenheit in September and 15 degrees Celsius / 59 degrees Fahrenheit, even as late as November.

You may run into heavy rains and thunderstorms from around the middle of August onwards. But, generally speaking, autumns are significantly warmer than in Northern Europe. It's often as warm here as an English summer. Unsurprisingly, this is a peak time for cruise ship tourism which is, in fact, busier in spring and autumn than in high summer.

view from rougonIn Provence, the tourist season continues right up to the autumn college break. This falls around the time of Halloween and the Toussaint (All Saints' Day, 1 November: a public holiday in France). After that date many major attractions close down until Easter.

Up till then, though, it's still really pleasant to be outside. There are plenty of lively and unusual events aimed at the locals back from their vacation and there's no reason why visitors shouldn't join in the fun.

Or why not visit the classic tourist spots at your leisure? We drove round the Gorges de Verdon, pictured above, during a glorious weekend in early September, when we took this photo, and, instead of crawling along the road in a crocodile of camper vans, virtually had the place to ourselves.

Equally empty of crowds are other top sights such as the Gorges de la Nesque, Mont Ventoux, the Camargue and the Pont du Gard. We always make a point of heading for these in the autumn or spring.

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Below we give an overview of just some of the fantastic things to do in Provence in the autumn, grouped loosely under five headings: outdoor activities and sports, food, wine, cultural events and general festivals. Click on the links for more detailed information. And bonne visite!

THE GREAT OUTDOORS

During a three-day weekend in mid-September Marseille celebrates the wind (instead of, as usual, grumbling about it) with the Fête du Vent.

This is a huge and long-established kite festival on the city's Prado beaches with hundreds of international kite creators and crack kite flyers, plus children's workshops and many other events.

Septembre en Mer (September by the Sea) offers a month of marine-themed events in and around Marseille. The programme might encompass everything from seafood feasts and scuba diving lessons to shipyard visits and excursions to the Riou or Frioul Islands in RIBs (rigid inflatable boats) or traditional pointus (fishing boats). Many of these activities are available during this period only.

Still in Marseille, L'Automne des Calanques is a long and relatively new festival of outdoor activities in this beautiful part of Provence.

And the Arles region has Dans les Bras du Rhône, a similar, equally long programme exploring the atmospheric river delta from Avignon to Saintes Maries de la Mer.

Over in the Var, in the little hill village of Le Castellet, the Paul Ricard racetrack hosts the Bol d'Or in mid-September. Not just a terrific spectator sport event, this 24 hour motorcycle race is also an all-round weekend party with lots of fun, family-friendly activities around it.

Autumn is an ideal time for hiking and cycling. In summer, Provence's beauty spots, such as the calanques on the coast, the hills of Aubagne, pictured, or the forested areas further north, can often be closed to visitors because of fire risk.

aubagne walk2This is highly unlikely from September onwards. Parking in these areas will be much easier too.

Activities such as the extraordinary Marcel Pagnol themed walks / theatrical performances in Aubagne - impossible in the summer - resume in October for a brief autumn season.

In late October the enormously popular Marseille-Cassis half-marathon passes through one of the most beautiful settings in the world for a running race. From mid-August onwards, football / soccer fans can watch Marseille's team, Olympique de Marseille playing at home at its shiny renovated Vélodrome Stadium.

And locals on the coast plausibly insist that, if the sun is shining and the wind not up, it's still possible to go swimming in the sea right up until 1 November (and even into the middle of winter).

THE FOOD

calisson2Fans of the calisson, the sweet speciality of Aix en Provence, pictured, should make a date to be in town on the first Sunday in September for the Fête des Calissons.

On this day, the tasty little white morsels are blessed at the lovely old church of Saint Jean de Malte in the Mazarin Quarter. Expect dancing, a procession - and free samples!

If you're in a forested area, autumn is the time to forage for fungi. You may see illustrated posters of mushrooms and toadstools in pharmacies, where French people line up to get their hauls verified as edible. This is a free service which we've used ourselves on occasion.

Cèpes (wild mushrooms) are on sale at markets and in greengroceries and are one of the autumn's most delicious treats.

Chestnuts are in season too and several towns and villages host a festival devoted to them (une fête de la chataigne).

The best-known one is in Collobrières, in the Var east of Saint Tropez, usually on three successive Sundays in late October. There'll be music, dancing, processions and lots of chestnut specialities. In the Alpes de Haute Provence, try the festival in Revest de Bion, also in October.

picking a crocusIn late October and early November you can also see fields of Provence's blue gold. No, not lavender, but crocuses for saffron.

Saffron farms are found as far south as the Marseille and Aix area, as far east as Bargemon near Seillans in the Var and as far north as the slopes of Mont Ventoux in Vaucluse and Les Alpes de Haute Provence. Many saffron farms offer tours by appointment.

On a Saturday in late November or early December, the truffle season officially starts in Northern Provence with the Ban des Truffes in Richerenches, a solemn and ceremonial Truffle Proclamation, followed by the first truffle market of the year. But you'll really have to come back in midwinter to find Provence's "black diamonds" at their best.

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France celebrates its food and drink in an event called Goût de France (it's called Good France in English and was previously known as the Fête de la Gastronomie).

In 2010 French gastronomy was added to UNESCO's list of "intangible cultural heritage" treasures across the world. This government-sponsored, nationwide celebration was launched the following year, just to make sure no-one forgets the fact.

It includes all sorts of special events such as tastings, workshops and open-air banquets in cities, towns and villages across the country.

The recent public health crisis has impacted the timing of this event, which has been moved from the autumn to the spring in recent years, though it's still unclear whether the new date is permanent.

In late September or early October, after the main tourist trade has slackened off, you may well also find two-for-one restaurant bargains, often at very upmarket, Michelin-starred eateries.

If you're in Marseille, be sure to check out SAVIM. This long-established gastronomy fair in late November is the largest of its kind in France (and that includes Paris).

It attracts over 7,000 visitors and some 400 gourmet food and wine producers from all over France and Italy who gather to present their wares and let you try and buy their goodies.

Also in November, Arles has its own big wine, food, decor and crafts fair, Provence Prestige, le salon de l'art de vivre en Provence (The Art of Living in Provence). This is an annual salon of some 150 provençal artisans and designers.

Teeming with great ideas for interior and exterior decor, furniture, fashion, cosmetics and, of course, gastronomy, it takes place in Arles in late November (there's also a smaller spin-off event in Saintes Maries de la Mer in the early autumn). It comes just in time for some early Christmas shopping.

 

THE WINE

Autumn sees the vineyards of Provence transformed into a fabulous blaze of gold, bronze and red, while towns and villages celebrate the grape harvest and - they hope - a vintage year.

Avignon does so with an all-day festival, the Ban des Vendanges at the beginning of September (or in some years right at the very end of August). It marks the gathering of the grapes from the papal vineyards, with tastings of Côtes du Rhône wines, a farmers' market, picnics, dancing and music.

Cassis has Les Vendanges Etoilées (The Starry Grape Harvest) in late September. The "starry" bit refers to the Michelin-starred chefs who give cookery demonstrations and supervise the food on offer, and there are, needless to say, many opportunities to taste Cassis' delicious wines.

Not to be outdone, wine-makers in the area around Aix en Provence organise an annual fun motor rally, the Rallye Sainte Victoire, in mid-October. It involves a day-long treasure hunt around the region's vineyards and plenty of eating and (for the non-drivers!) drinking. Unsurprisingly it's a sell-out event each year and around 1,000 people take part.

millevin avignonProvence doesn't go overboard in celebrating the arrival of the current year's vintage, à la Beaujolais Nouveau. But individual vineyards will have primeur tastings in mid-November.

And Avignon holds another big party called Millévin to mark the new Côtes du Rhône. This welcome early winter warmer, pictured, features tastings, music, illuminations and an open-air supper in the middle of town.

From late August to mid October, you'll also find France's autumn Foires aux vins (wine fairs or wine sales) at supermarkets across the country, during which wines are on sale at heavily discounted prices. It's a great opportunity to stock up for Christmas and New Year.

Also in October, the curiously named Fascinant Weekend is a nationwide celebration of wine, with many events at vineyards all across the country, including Provence

THE ARTS

After the end of the big July music, theatre and photography festivals in Aix, Avignon and Arles respectively, the arts scene shuts down for August while everyone goes off to bake on the beach or chill in the mountains. But in September the action starts up again.

A key event - not just in Provence but all across Europe - is a weekend in mid-September, the Journées du Patrimoine.

It's variously known as European Heritage Days, Doors Open Days or Open Doors Days in English-speaking countries: note that the dates in different countries are not always the same.

During these two days entrance to many museums and galleries is free of charge or at a reduced rate and a number also offer one-off special events such as guided tours, concerts, workshops and readings.

prefecture journees patrimoineThe Journées du Patrimoine is not just about museums, though: all sorts of oddball other places briefly open their doors.

In previous years, for example, we've visited the villa in La Ciotat and the Grand Salon, where the pioneering Lumière Brothers showed their first short films (it's now a private residence).

On another occasion we took a tour of the historic Marseille Préfecture (regional adminstrative offices), which opens its doors to the public just once a year.

Its incredibly lavish interiors were set off by a surprise spectacle: a sumptuous Second Empire costume ball, pictured above. No expense was spared. And, yes, that tour was free as well.

Insider Tip for the Heritage Days in FranceIn many years the SNCF, France's national rail operator, offers cheap day and weekend tickets during the Journées du Patrimoine, enabling you to explore the region by train at very low cost.

After a summer on tour, Angelin Preljocaj's ballet company at the Pavillon Noir in Aix en Provence is back in town in October. And the Opéra de Marseille, pictured, the Opéra de Toulon and the Opéra Grand Avignon also reopen their doors for the season.

opera de marseilleMarseille has a wave of music festivals throughout the autumn. In October, the Fiesta des Suds describes itself as a mix of carnival, local festival, oriental nouba, féria and contemporary music from France and the world.

It's followed in November by Jazz sur la Ville, a month of jazz in the city.

Still in Marseille, the Abbaye Saint Victor has a very long-established and prestigious series of classical music concerts throughout the autumn in one of the loveliest churches in town. Meanwhile, over in Avignon, there's a reputed blues festival in October.

Or check out the très glamorous and glitzy Festival de mode et de photographie in Hyères. In late October the sleek Art Deco Villa Noailles plays host to some of the biggest names and hottest newcomers in haute couture and photography, and entrance to many events and parties is free.

THE FESTIVALS

arles09Provence loves to party all year round, and that includes autumn and winter. Apart from all the food, wine, music and sports themed events mentioned above, here's a selection of some of the more unusual fall festivals.

Arles is a city that knows how to throw a top party, and one of its main shindigs of the year is the big Feria du Riz (Rice Festival) in early September.

Despite the name, this is not really anything much to do with the rice grown in the surrounding Camargue region. It's mainly about the dramatic bull games. and the spectacular (if bloody) Corrida Goyesque in Arles' magnificent Roman amphitheatre.

The Feria also features a regional gastronomy fair, plus plenty of jolly street music, pictured. For many visitors, though, the real highlight is the lively pop-up bodegas (late-night bars).

Arles has another, separate event called the Fête du Riz or sometimes the Prémices du Riz. It is usually held both in Arles and in surrounding villages on the following weekend.

This is a traditional harvest festival, involving the blessing of the rice - which does play a central starring role here - and a big carnival procession with floats.

Celebrating its self-proclaimed Venice connections, Martigues has a Venetian masque called Les flâneries au miroir in September at which participants stroll the little town's streets and canals in elaborate carnival costumes.

Marseille, meanwhile, turns Japanese in early October with an Akimatsuri, or autumn festival, in the Japanese gardens and tea pavillion of the Château Borély.

halloween berreProvence doesn't really mark Halloween. - though it is becoming increasingly popular and you may come across the odd surprising manifestation.

Pictured, this gentleman was part of an elaborate display we came across quite by chance in the sleepy little town of Ville de Berre while driving around Southern Provence!

But more and more family attractions such as the Rocher Mistral or the OK Corral lay on special spooky-themed events and, as mentioned above, the Toussaint (All Saints' Day) on 1 November is a public holiday.

Another hot diary date in autumn is 11 November, which sees a huge abrivado in the coastal Camargue village of Saintes Maries de la Mer.

This bravura demonstration of bull herding skills involves teams of Camargue cowboys and up to 2,000 horses, all galloping at high speed along the beaches.

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