Torrefaction Noailles tearoom, MarseilleThe wrought-iron canopy and ornate frontage of Torréfaction Noailles lead to a cool, tiled interior infused with fragrant coffees and teas.

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One counter sells patisserie; another has chocolate and local speciality sweetmeats: calissons d'Aix (a glazed sweet made with powdered almonds and preserved melon) and Marseille navettes (boat-shaped biscuits perfumed with orange flower essence).

Sit on a high stool at the counter to sample one of a dozen of coffee or 50 teas with a cake or ice-cream. Regrettably the café removed its low tables with their much more comfortable chairs during the recent redecoration, which does now make it a less attractive place to linger.

In summer there are freshly-pressed fruit cocktails. An excellent source of gifts, Torréfaction Noailles also sells cafetières and pretty coffee and tea services.

On the shabby Canebière, it's an establishment with class: the flagship tea room/coffee house of what has become a mini-chain (though beware of more recent, inferior imitations elsewhere within the franchise).

Where: 56 La Canebière, 13001 Marseille. Tel: (+33) 4 91 55 60 66. Website for Torréfaction Noailles

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